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EspañolSpigot Replacement Guide
(Applicable to Gardens/Kitchens/Industrial Tanks)
I. Preparation for Dismantling
Shut off and release pressure
Close the main valve → Open all low-level spigots to drain any remaining water (to prevent splashing during dismantling)
Drain any remaining liquid from oil tanks and chemical drums, ventilate, and test for combustible gases
Three-piece demolition kit
Rust inhibitor (Spray WD-40 through threads)
Pipe wrench (leverage strength for 24-inch and larger)
Propane torch (melts stubborn sealant)
II. Violent Dismantling Techniques
▶ Scenario 1: Rusted Threads
Spray rust inhibitor and soak for 10 minutes → Engage the pipe wrench tightly against the valve body → Install the force rod and tighten slowly (sudden force may break the pipe end)
If this fails, heat the connection with a spray gun until it turns slightly red → Pour cold water on it → Thermal expansion and contraction will cause the rust layer to crack
▶ Scenario 2: Hexagonal Base Screws
Cut the cross groove with an angle grinder → Insert a flat chisel → Hammering to crack the valve body (wear a fire mask)
III. New spigot Installation
Sealing Combination
Wrap threads with 5 turns of raw tape (against the threads)
Apply anaerobic thread sealant (red bottle, high-strength)
Add a copper washer (avoid rubber due to oil corrosion)
Alignment Tips
Insert by hand until resistance increases → back off 1/8 turn → Use a wrench to tighten to the original position (allow for thermal expansion clearance)
IV. Life-saving Test
Test Items: Traditional Method, Life-or-Death Standard
Static Seal: Hang a weight on the wrench to simulate stress. Ensure the connection remains free of moisture for 24 hours.
Dynamic Seal: Rapidly open and close 10 times → Observe with a paper towel. No water seepage from the valve stem.
Pressure Limit: Block the outlet and apply pressure with an air pump → Listen for abnormal sounds. 0.8 MPa, no popping sound.
